I am looking at our cats lay peacefully on the kitchen floor next to a suspicious looking yellow toy dog. The smiles on their faces tell me just how strung out on cat nip they are.
      Stuart and I experienced a similar sensation of lethargy this past week induced by large quantities of steak, cheese and wine. Stuart’s dad came to town for a few days.
      There are several sites on the internet listing things you must do while in Buenos Aires. As you can imagine I have accomplished several; 30. Sprinting across Av. 9 de Julio in one bolt,

 31.Spending an afternoon reading in Ateneo’s book store,

32. Eating pizza from Guerrin on Av. Corrients etc http://www.pizzeria-guerrin.com.ar/      

      But even with all my time in Buenos Aires there were a few I had missed. Chip’s visit motivated Stuart and I to get out and cross of a few more experiences. Thursday morning when Chip arrived, we walked around to 1.Plaza 1.Plaza de Mayo and up Av. de Mayo to Café Tortoni.
      
2.Café Tortoni http://www.cafetortoni.com.ar makes everyone’s list. I’d passed it with long lines of tourists waiting to get in. The interior of the space remained a mystery however, as all the windows are closed with heavy curtains.  We walked in and my jaw dropped, marble, wood stained glass and waiters in tuxedos. We took a seat and ordered a 3.traditional Argentine breakfast; 3 media lunas and café con leche. .

      Afterwards we walked through our neighborhood of San Telmo and showed Chip a few of our favorite spots like 4. Plaza Dorrego , , and 5. Defensa Street  before stopping in at his hotel. Later that afternoon the two headed for 6. Recoleta Cemetery, http://www.recoletacemetery.com/   another staple on the list. I stayed in to work, something that you should avoid at all costs if visiting BA.

      7. La Cabrerra, BA’s most famous steak house. http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/central-and-south-america/argentina/buenos-aires/60725/la-cabrera/restaurant-detail.html , We heard the rumors. We read the reviews online. But nothing could prepare us for the monster cut of steak and smorgasbord of sides they put before us. We walked out with half a cow in a doggie bag. Stu read recently that Argentina has a per capita consumption of beef per year of 143 lbs. I am convinced La Cabrera has something to do with this. http://worldfocus.org/blog/2009/07/20/meat-lovers-mourn-argentinas-disappearing-beef/6393/o

      But no matter how much steak you eat there is always room for 8. Gelatto  We tried to walk a bit of it off by passing 9.BA’s narrowest house in San Telmo.
      
      
      The next morning we woke early. I made crepes, delicious and not on the list but the 10. Dulce de Leche I filled them with was!  We boarded the bus and headed for 11. The Mataderos street fair. Sadly death took on a new meaning in Mataderos as we took the 45 minute bus ride out to discover there was in fact no fair that day. We wandered a few blocks noting the roughness of the barrio; dead dog, broken glass, cracked pavement and headed for the nearby safety of 12. a Hole in the wall parilla, where we 13. ate asado and 14. drank Quilmes.  
      On the way home Stu and his dad repeated # 8.
      
      
      15. We napped. Naps are universal for all travel lists.
      Around 6 we  went to 16. The MALBA  for some modern art. On top of the permanent greats like Frida Kahlo and 17.Plastic Potatoes we swung to the top floor for a peculiar temporary exhibit. Lots of multimedia including a frustrating video of an “artist” stacking Styrofoam blocks. We walked out scratching our heads as one should when leaving a modern art museum.

Potato

      
      We walked around a bit before heading back to our place. We made the night extra special by opening Stu’s 18. Good bottle of wine, the Las Perdices Don Juan. The boys taunted the kitten with more catnip and small chunks of cow from the night before.
      

      For Chips last day in town we walked around 19. La Boca, probably my least favorite on the list aside from 20. Dog poop. It continues to amaze me how exhausting two blocks can feel when you are harassed by people trying to sell you something. “No I don’t want to buy a pair of jeans for my dog. And no I would not like to “prove” a cup of coffee”.

      From there we took a taxi for # 21. Conversation in broken Spanish with a Porteno cabi- This one includes several parts or cannot be considered complete. You must talk about a) Politics, both Bush and Obama. b) asado and meat. c) Soccer and currently d) Michael Jackson.

We exited at 22. Plaza Serrano in Palermo. The afternoon was spent walking around the neighborhood with a stop for lunch in one of the city’s top rated restaurants; Sarki’s. We enjoyed some wine and excellent food. This place makes my list at # 23.

We continued walking and made our way through Alto Palermo and past the 24. The Pollo Fields. We showed Chip the Anuva Head Quarters and experienced a rare phenomenon in this city, rain, not on the list.

Walking some more we all felt the need for a little caffeine. Stuart indirectly repeated #8  again with a coffee milk shake. We warmed our bones and relaxed a bit before splashing through the streets to La Cava Jufre.

We made reservations for a jazz concert and arrived early to snag the giant velvet couch. We ordered a terrific bottle of wine and waited for the show to start. We could not have asked for a better night. We enjoyed a Jazz quartet’s long set with the best seat in the house.

By 2 am we made it back to our apt. The 4 days flew by so quickly it felt weird to say good bye. But we felt proud for accomplishing so much. Next time we will have a few more things to cross off; including 25. Peruvian Chicken with Bruce, 26. Wine Tasting and oh yeah maybe 27. Tango, 28. Leather, and 29. Mate.

This past week I had an interview for graduate school and choked. I applied to one program focusing in Hispanic Cultural Studies. The program would have lasted one year and been in Madrid. I had prepared for a no, and fantacized about a yes. When I got a maybe I paniced. A director from the program wanted to meet with me during a trip to Buenos Aires.

I arrived early for the interview and paced around the neighborhood for 30 min letting my nerves get the better of me. I wasn’t sure what to expect. The interview turned into an evaluation of my Spanish instead of a discussion about the program. I was so nervous about speaking Spanish that I temporarily forgot why I enjoy studying Hispanic cultues and history.

In the end the director informed me that my level of Spanish was unsatisfactory and suggested I take formal lessons and reapply next year. I agree I could benefit from Spanish lessons. But I am also a little disappointed in myself for not expressing my strengths. I could offer a unique historic perspective. It is true I was not a Spanish scholar. My degree is in history and some how I managed to pick up the language through a few classes. The rejection letter should be in the mail shortly.

I feel my Spanish will continue to improve with more time in South America and the addition of Spanish lessons. I hope to make it to Spain but it might not be next fall.

Buenos Aires isn’t toooooo terrible either.

To cheer myself up I headed to Plaza San Martin to revist an playful exhibition that went up in the beginning of March. The United “Buddy” Bears of Berlin featured Plaster cast bears from every country. The organization exists to support charities and originated in Germany.

I went around taking shots of my favorite countries and my room mates’ homes. Spain’s bear was fashioned after Guadi, Argentina with Gardel’s Image, Germany, Italy with Venetian Carnival etc.

Looking at my “Cats of Greece” Calander I seeearly 3 months have passed. Still, a great portion of the city remains unconquered. Everyday I add new cafes, galleries, theaters, parks that I want to explore. Saturday I ventured to Palermo and found myself in an entirely new part of the bario. I made my way past the Gallieo planetarium and the immense rose gardens taking in the many bridges and lakes.  Eventually I arrived at the Eduardo Sivori museum.

Eduardo Sivori is considered one of Argentina’s first realist. He painted still lifes, portraits and landscapes through the second half of the 19^th century. He is most known for his portraits of the pampas and his involvement in the development of academic art in Buenos Aires.

The museum holds a few paintings by the artist as well as other influential painter from about the 20^th century. I admired the work and passed into the adjacent sala. I was struck by a magnificent collection of Leopold Presas work. (The exhibition is temporary and will only be displayed until March.)

Presas was born in Buenos Aires and studied painting at Bellas Artes. His work shows influence of fauvism, surrealism and expressionism. He belonged to a group of vanguard artists known as Orión which experimented with surrealism.

Presas’ work from the 60’s onward make commentary on contemporary issues including capitalism, erotica, Vietnam, and religion.  Some of the reoccurring themes contain the female form, pigs or “los credos”,  and crucifixes. Like a true fauvist Presas uses saturated colors to reflect his attitude towards various subjects. For example pale yellow figures are shot at by soldiers in his series on Vietnam. Everything is blue and black toned leaving you with a disturbing sinister icy sensation.

His work has only added to my excitement about modern Argentine painters. I hung around the small gallery for over an hour. None of the pictures I post will do his work justice. For one I didn’t find much online. His work will not photograph well. His paintings are large with gobs of dark oil paint reflect any light source.

As Stuart graphically described we became violently ill. A word to the wise; if you order a steak rare and it comes out an hour later tough and luke-warm don’t eat it. I imagine the cook set our steak aside after a quick flip on the grill. While waiting for the other orders something went wrong or was forgotten. Our steak sat impatiently breeding alot sorts of microbes before getting a quick reheat under a kitchen bulb.

We weathered the storm and awoke with steak in our sink.

Commentary will be my salvation and defense. Stuart’s limited description of our trip to the MALBA requires an explanatory rebuttal. Lets begin with a basic description of the MALBA. The Malba features Latin American art from the 20^th century. Their mission is preserve and study pieces from this era in order to understand changing perspectives and self identification of Latin America.

With this outlined purpose in mind it is fair to assume that most pieces in this relatively short collection express important ideas relative to this time period. Many pieces in the museum are captivating. Stuart and I both fell for Jorge de la Vega’s multimedia pieces.

The collection had two works by de la Vega which used a plaster mold to recast a mask or image repeatedly on one canvas. The artists made the original mask into a mould and set the image in raised plaster or used plastered pieces as a stamp. He filled the prints with different mediums such as broken glass or fabric. For me the theme of mass production is obvious. He may have simply been playing with new mediums or commentating on something deeper like the influence of industrialized society on individual identity, or lack there of.

I will admit some of this art goes over my head. In fact its way out there. But for me art is an expression of ideas in different mediums and usually sparks my interest to learn what the artist’s thought process may have been.

Sometimes when Stuart teases me about my nerdy interest in art I laugh along. Perhaps my education has trained me to read too deeply. For example earlier in the gallery we saw a modern cavernous wooden bench entitled “Meeting and Fossil”. Stuart seemed a bit disgusted when I replied “Of course!  First meetings and fossils are both leave impressions.”

I’ll admit the potatoes felt a bit out of place.  But, they downright offended Stuart. But as Stuart commented on their stupidity my connection to these potatoes strengthened ten fold. I offered my defense and burst into flames.

I will spare you the 4 hour debate which carried on late into the afternoon over some cold beer.I will try and simplify my interpretation. I feel the artists contrasted a representation of edible food with a plastic form to express the idea of consumption. Real potatoes or food are basic and necessary for sustenance. But modern society had gone beyond meeting our needs and created a new form of empty consumption; consumerism.

During the time when this piece was made Latin America further questioned its own identity.  Contrasting the two demonstrates the resentment felt by many Latin Americans toward capitalism at this time and its influence on Latin American culture. Like many of the other works in the gallery the piece is meant to question “Who are we in the context of a Global community?”, “How have other cultures influenced us and what sort of culture do we want to create?”.

Stuart felt that art should clearly express its idea and should in someway capture the viewer’s attention through aesthetics.  He felt the potatoes poorly rendered and uninteresting. I’d like to think the artist did this intentionally. During this time period many artists made non art or art that is not conventionally perceived as art. It is not that the artists can’t render or that they are lazy.

For example if we look at Picaso’s earlier work he can render as well as Rembrandt but adopted a simplified style. Those unfamiliar with his talent would perceive much of his work as a lack of skill. The potatoes are not a pretty painting someone could buy as commodity and forget about. They are ugly and require thought. New mediums, plastics, “happenings” and pop refrences allowed artists to coment on modern society. As evident by our afternoon they clearly stir up a strong debate about art and its purpose.

Forgive me for my over explanation. I realize I went into far too much. As a functionally illiterate person I read deeper into other modes of expression than most. Stuart is far better read than I and offers other sources of information I don’t. The point is our differences allow us to challenge each other, which we obviously both enjoy.

To elaborate on the wine shop we had been buying wine from the super market. This wine shop had reasonable prices included expert advice. So much of buying wine is building a relationship with a someone in the business. Getting to know a local wine shop or sommelier can help navigate the wine world. At the Vintage Cellar Stu and I had Trent. I told the clerk we wanted something in the 35 peso range, a malbec that didn’t need food and wasn’t too tannic. His recommendation of Tomerro fit our demands. He gave me his card and told me to contact him in February when the shop begins wine tastings.

This afternoon I walked to Recoletta and back.  From San Telmo it is quite a kick about, just under 2 hours one way. But I had the time spend and Christmas calories to burn. I wanted to revisit an exhibit at the cultural center. For the rest of January the center will display “Argentina Pinta Bien”, a collection of art from around Argentina.  The galleries feature art work from Missiones, Jujuy, Tucuman, Corrientes, Tierra del Fuego, San Juan and La Pampa.

The have put a collection together every year since 2003. Every year the regions selected change.  Most of the pieces are mixed media; everything from wood carvings, to old shirts, and shopping carts. The program aims to demonstrate the variation of modern artists through out Argentina and the distinct styles of each region.

I snapped pictures of some of my favorites. You may note the variety and creativity.

Cecilia Rabbi Baldi

“Antropo” 2006

-San Juan

This entire staute was made from rolled magazine pages

Dini Calderon

“Fantasmas de la lluvia, Mujeres”

La Pampa

The artist painted fabric stuffed fabric forms adhered to a canvas.

Lihue Pumilla

“Serie Malditos de Humanos”

La Pampa

Nightmereish wood carvings

Blanca Machuca

“Ritual de Sanacion, El Matrimonio” 2007

Tucuman

Blanket or quilt. Upon closer inspection the bright colored piece is made from used clothing. Entire shirts and pants are sewn together to make a unique design. The title translates into “the ritual of the sanction of marriage.” I like the use of a quilt made from a couple’s possessions to represent the unison of two lives. It almost seems like the artist disliked her hubby’s Hawaiian shirts and repurposed them.

Jorge Lobato Coronel

“Oliva” 2004

Tucuman

The artist decorated a urn filled with his dogs ashes. The photo struck me. I kind of got choked up; we all know what its like to lose a pet. I like how peaceful she looks, like a puppy again.

Geronimo Rodriguez

“Cantautor” 2006

Misiones

Andres Paredes

“Estambres” 2007”

Misiones

Sunday I awoke to meet my new roommate, Matt. He arrived that morning. He plans to attend Spanish classes and eventually take the TEFL course. Seems he is close to finishing his phd in English at Chicago and has studied French Italian and Latin. The grammar games offered by Bridge might be below his level.

I invited him to join me on a trip to Palermo. We went to the MALBA and walked around the entire day. He followed as if I knew where I was or where I was going. The look on his face made me laugh. I remember not to long ago feeling just as overwhelmed. Even still I say to myself “I am in Buenos Aires”

The MALBA’s collection includes many different types of medium. Film, paintings, sculpture, photography even an interactive itunes station with audio samples. On our visit we took into consideration Matt’s jetlag. And like my visits to other sights I keep in mind the prospect of sequential visits. Sometimes it is nice to do a preliminary run through of a gallery. Afterwards I like to read about the parts of the collection I found interesting before returning.

I noticed two artists who also have pieces at Bellas Artes in Recoletta. Vega and Berni. Vega reminds me of the first time I saw Van Gogh; gobs and gobs of thick paint. He has many mixed medium pieces including broken glass and newspaper shreds. Berni had a collection of monsters made from every scrap imaginable.

The city of Buenos Aires created a large cemetery in 1822. Rows of ornate Art Nouveau tombs and mausoleums for an enormous necropolis (thank you AMK). Some of the most prestigious families reserved plots in this vast grave yard.

On Sundays the city offers free tours. I took advantage and reserved the entire afternoon to visit the neighborhood. As usual I stood disturbingly close to the tour guide stringing my ears and reading lips.

            I love a good ghost story. From an early age I can recall a fascination with folklore. Some how I find myths told in Spanish even more exhilarating and mysterious.  Hundreds of families fill Recoletta cemetery. Peering down several narrow allies I felt overwhelmed by the amount of history.  With in an hour the group visited about 5 or 6 graves.

Favorite Stories

 Rufina- According to legend on her 19^th birthday Rufina collapsed. The doctors mistook her for dead and placed her in a coffin. Several days later she awoke in the family crypt. She escaped only to run to the cemetery gates and die from fear. Others speculate that grave robbers broke into the tomb and discarded her body to the entrance.

            Boys will be Boys- At another grave the body of an older woman was stolen. The thieves left a note demanding ransom from the family. Eventually the police discovered the culprits; a group of arrogant bored wealthy young men. As a result there is a law in Argentina against cadaver snatching.

            After the cemetery I headed to The Museum of Las Bellas Artes. The collection impressed me. The ground level has a well balanced chronology of the various movements in European art. I haven’t been to a large museum in awhile and needed the review. Through the 24 rooms I worked my way from Flemish religious works, Baroque, French Impressionism, and Surrealism. All the key players from Ruben to Goya, Velázquez, Degas, and Picasso lined the walls.

 I walked up the stairs and into the main meat of the museum. Argentine art filled ¾ of the 1^st floor. By the time I encountered the modern exhibits I was exhausted. Pre Columbian Mexican art and a temporary exhibit of Latin American art occupied the reaming space. The 3^rd floor had a great collection of South American Photography. Pictures of the mothers of the disappeared, Peron, soldiers.

 I found a neat website full of the Cemetery’s. As for Bellas Artes I am very interested in 20^th and 21^st century Argentine art. I can walk to Recoletta from my apartment and plan to visit again. It is comforting to know I can familiarize these sites and  spend many more Sundays revisiting.

The southern trip ended on the 22^nd. Most of the CESA group took the bus back to Riva. With a free weekend I went to Florence with Smalls and Molly. We left around 8 am and headed for the train station at the bottom of the hill. The train ride was brief, but dirty. Before we boarded a poultry train whipped by the tracks dusting us with feathers and chicken filth. 

Rome and the other trips had been very busy so we opted to relax for a few days. We stayed in two different hostels. The first was disgusting. Never stay at the riverbank hostel or hostel via san Croche. Someone had converted their apartment into a hostel, it smelled of cigarettes and garbage. To its credit there was a really great loft with a table.

We spent the day walking around the city and in the Piazza San Lorenzo. There is a ton of shopping. I was tempted to buy several leather bags but stuck to post cards. Florence is also known for making beautiful papers. I went into several carta shops to see the different styles.

Molly and Carrie took a nap around 5. It was a nice night so I bought a bottle of wine and walked to see the sunset at the Ponte Vechio. The view from the Ponte Grazie was perfect. On the way back from the bridge I stopped in shop and bought a hand painted bottle stopper. We went to bed fairly early in order to wake up ready for a full day.

The next morning we checked into our new hostel, the Hotel Stampaoli. The accommodations were very clean and charming. The staff was very friendly and I would highly recommend staying here. We walked around the city stopping to see the replica of David and eat gelato near the bridge.

That afternoon we took a tour of the Uffizi gallery. This gallery had a lot of famous works and reminded me of the survey course I took back at tech. I hadn’t prepared myself to see Botticelli and almost went into shock.  A few rooms were closed including the Caravaggio. This museum had everything; Da Vinci, Titian, Ruben, and Lippi. I leave soon for Barcelona and will write more on this museum later.

That night we went to a restaurant recommended by the hostel clerk. Florence is known for its Bruschetta and was a clear choice.  The next day we walked around and climbed to the top of the tower outside the Duomo.  I loved Florence and will elaborate more later on.