IGUAZU!

With the family gone Stu and I took a few days to get back in a routine. But sometimes after a lengthy vacation all you need is another vacation. On a whim we booked tickets one of Argentina’s top destinations, Iguazu.

We allowed ourselves 10 days to prepare and settle our yellow fever vaccines. During that time we cleaned and prepped the house for new flat mates and finally hired a new maid. We even bought a Christmas tree and dressed Carlos up like a sugar plum fairy…

Time flies when you are having fun and torturing a retarded cat. Before long we were boarding a bus to Misiones. Each time we travel we try a new bus service. Most lines in Argentina are clean, comfortable and treat your like royalty.

This time around we traveled with Expresso Singer. With sharp blue buses and an impressive website I had high expectations. Instead we wound up on a bus with a disgruntled and endured a 3 hour 1980’s Argentine folk music concert DVD; bad hair, tight pants awkward dancing. With 20 hrs on a bus we had no blankets and NO WINE!

We did however get to practice our Spanish listening skills. At one point or another each customer complained to the steward and wound up in a full-blown Porteno tiff. I noticed when Portenos have a spat, it is very important that each of them feel like they had the last word. There is a lot of repetition and post quarrel mumbling.

I woke up several times through the night in a stopped bus. It seems to me the drive to Iguazu could be done in 14 hrs if the drivers didn’t stop for so many cigarettes.
When we finally arrived the next day 2.5 hours late we were glad to learn our hostel was directly around the corner from the bus station.

STOP Hostel, for the price was a very good deal. We slept in an 8 bedroom mixed dorm. By mixed I really mean 6 stinky boys and me. Everyone was nice enough, but I had forgotten how when most people travel they like to go clubbing. Although Stuart and I are only in our early 20’s we have never really been into nightlife. We had to turn our Middle Eastern party boy roommates down on several occasions.

Instead we had a beer or two and went to bed. We woke early (7 for me! 9 for Stuart…. Personal best?) We ate our free hostel breakfast and boarded the local bus to the waterfalls.

“Poor Niagara”- Eleanor Roosevelt

According to legend an angry god split a river in half to stop two young lovers from to escaping his wrath. Some angry god! Iguazu Falls are a massive range of 275 waterfalls. The tallest waterfall is known as the Devil’s Throat and rises about 269 ft (82 meters)! The fall is horseshoe shaped and150-meter-wide and 700-meter-long.

There are 3 main trails, the outlook over the Devils Throat, the Upper Circuit, which traces along the tops of the falls and the Lower Trail which curves down the base of the falls.

We walked all three the first day with our jaws dropped. Even with a slight overcast the falls inflict awe and amazement. With the intent to see it all we added on a 7 k hike through the Sendero Macuco. The trail is supposedly known for wildlife sightings.

This sign let my imagination run wild. Translated it read something like “Do not give the monkeys food or be fooled by the monkeys’ innocent charms they can be aggressive. I envisioned adorable packs swinging to and from trees.

To my slight disappointment we found only giant armored ants, a few lizards, racoon type creatures and swarms of OFF resistant mosquitoes. We made our way through the mud to a beautiful waterfall.

Sitting for a spell we noticed how fast the water was moving. Heavy rains and flooding made the falls a bit dangerous. Quite a few bridged trails had been washed out and the normal swimming pools off San Martin Island were closed. Regardless of the clear and present danger Stuart climbed a slippery rock below a gushing cascade. (Notice the 4 waterfalls in this photo).

We returned to the hostel in need of refreshment. On the border of Brazil that means Caprihanas, a drink made with Cachaça (Brazilian rum), crushed lime and sugar.

We sat sipping our happy hour special and played a few hands of Gin. (It is important to note Stuart has given me a few lessons in Bridge, but I am still scared to challenge the rest of the Chescheir clan.)

That night we joined our roommates for dinner and fell asleep before 11:30. Satisfied with our previous full day I let Stuart sleep in an extra 30 minutes. After another free breakfast and a stroll around the sleepy town we decided to revisit the falls.

A wise choice! The falls exudes much more magic on clear sunny days. By magic I mean dozens of rainbows , birds and hundreds of butterflies floating above the falls. With less of an agenda we strolled slowly along the lower circuit.

We sat near the main ledge watching other tourists take their soaking wet pictures in the spray of the falls. The water drugged everyone into a playful overjoyed state. We laughed at the 70 something French man in a Speedo dragging his wife towards the waters.

We stayed at the falls till close and shuttled back to the town. Having spent two perfect days at the park we felt satisfied with our visit to the area. With a few bug bites and tired legs we decided to send our last full day at a different hostel.

On the way to the falls we had passed the Hostel Inn. A gorgeous oasis with giant swimming pool and palm trees. Other had told of its greatness. So, for $12.50 usd extra each we splurged and booked a room.

The next day was spent in the water. Just as I had not flown for over a year I also had not swam! I was raised as a fish and quickly remembered how aquatic I am. After several hours in the pool it was happy hour.

Stuart and I ordered more Caprihanas. 2 for $10 pesos, we expected lime-aid light drinks like what drank at STOP. Wrong! Stuart watched the bar tender fill our glasses with alcohol and a few limes.

Somehow we wound up drinking 6. Stuart became the life of the party and set to the soccer fields, drink in hand. He returned, de-robed his mud caked clothes down to his stupid blue undies and got in the pool.

Too much sun and too much booze make a silly pumpkin. I was instructed to buy 2 entrances to that night’s bbq. Stuart told me it was the best food he’d ever had, but left half way through. Stuart went to bed at 9 on the dot.

Our room was hot, so it was no surprise that we woke up at 3 am for a walk by the pool. We had a good star lit laugh about that night’s adventures. Funny, wound up being the kids who couldn’t handle the cool hostel.

The next day we lounged in the shade on account of bad sunburns. The trip had been a success. We took the Via Bariloche fleet back to Buenos Aires, riding like royalty in our front top seats.

EDLUNDS & BOONES IN BA

3 Edlunds 2 Boones and 1 Chescheir boarded a plane to Buenos Aires. This was my first time on a plane in over a year and I felt a bit nervous soaring over the vast mountain range. Squeezing Stu’s hand I slowly relaxed and took in the bird’s eye view.

Everyone clapped as we landed safely at the Newberry airport. We hired two remises and set for the center. Mom and dad rented an apartment while Meg and Andrew stayed at a hotel in Plaza Dorrego. With everyone in the San Telmo vicinity it was easy to coordinate meetings and coffee dates.

Over the next few days we saw the sights; Recoleta Cemetery, Corrientes Street, San Telmo, Palermo, Ateneao etc. We toured mostly on foot but also on a big yellow bus. While the bus was often late to its pick up sites or full up I found the informative historical tour track very entertaining. As we breezed past major and minor monuments, buildings and parks we learned a bit about each neighborhood. Not to mention watching a chubby child swim in a grand fountain.

On top of whirlwind touring we also part-took in some extreme eating. Pizza, media lunas, café con leche, dulce de leche, picadas, beer, wine, steak, Spanish food at a Flamenco show, humus at Sarkis….

Unfortunately for the waistline half of Buenos Aires is experience through food. By the end of the week we had each gained 5 lbs and felt slightly sick from the over-load. We spent a good portion of the week recovering in mom and dad’s air-conditioned flat.

When we weren’t sight seeing or stuffing our faces or being ac slugs we were shopping. The boys were good sports and let us drag them to the ends of the earth hunting for leather boots. But eventually the girls decided to leave the stragglers behind. We spent an entire day traipsing through Florida Street returning with heaps of bags.

On one of our last days together we toasted some good news. Stuart was accepted to Oregon State! And Nancy got a new job at GE!  For Stuart and I this means a big move west. Classes start March 29th. Before that time we hope to do a South American Tour and a drive across the USA… something we like to call “The Grand BBQ Tour.”

Megan and Andrew flew back a few days before ma and pa. Saying goodbye wasn’t as sad knowing that in just months Stu and I will be living about two or three hours from Bend. Even more so, I don’t think we could have shook any more than we did out of Buenos Aires.

The next few days/ nights we took mom and dad to see two museums, the MALBA and the Museo de Bellas Artes. The Andy Warhol exhibition was still on so we had a gander at the famous soup cans and Mao portrait.

Our last night we really lived it up. We started at a new wine bar in Palermo called Di Vino before trekking on to our favorite watering hole, La Cava Jufre. While sitting on the plush velvet couches Dad dealt out a game of Pitch as we sipped a fantastic Malbec. For dinner we went to La Cabrera. I hesitated going there. Earlier I wrote it off as a tourist trap. But no matter how exocentric the cuts of meats and outlandish smorgasbord of mayonnaise sides are La Cabrera is an important staple in any BA visit.

Looking back on the 16 days I thought about how much we gained during the time we spent. both in quality family time and in sheer girth. The Edlund-Boone-Chescheir Argentine Tour truly was the trip of a lifetime!

I aawoke to this charming view outside my window:

Leaving Andrew under Francisco’s watchful eye the rest of us headed to a Villa la Angostura- about 1 hour away. Driving along the lake was spectacular. Eventually we arrived in a bustling town fully of quaint shops and plenty of bike rentals. From V la Angostura one can also reach the Bosque de Arrayanes. On a cold windy day with a sick brother in law a 10-hour hike seemed a bit much.

We opted for a 3-hour pass in a native territory. At the gate we were met with a local tribe trying to protect their land. They let us pass and park near the trails head.

We walked along a dirt road, which led to a breath taking overlook of the mountains.

Photo ops were seized before trekking down a windy trail to a waterfall. We completed the loop and drove back to check on the bed-ridden.

Andrew seemed in good spirits and joined us for a tour of town. We had our picture taken with a gypsy peddling fluffy sty Bernard beasts. That night we settled in four our last night in Bariloche. Sad to go. If months earlier I had predicted my schedule’s flexibility we would have stayed longer.

DAY 3- ARRAYANES TREES & A NOVELTY FONDUE POT AT THE CHALET SUIZZE

We didn’t read the maps well and ended up back at the same sleepy forest amidst a few native trees. By boat one can access Virginia Island and the Arrayanes trees with trunks thousands of years old.

The trees are old to the touch and wind up in spirals towards the sky. Each year they expand ½ and inch. The older trees take 10 lanky armed nature lovers to fully wrap around the trunks.

We admired the younger version of the forest and made a short walk back to our car. Stuart made a friend along the way. I am convinced Argentina has the best stray dogs. Street smart, quite and well behaved. Even the dogs that roam the forest mind their manners.

Bariloche is known for a few things; skiing, Saint Bernard, beer, trout, lamb and fondue. Eager to cross a few of my list I jumped at the sight of a giant novelty fondue pot.

We walked up the steps to the Chalet Swiss and rang the bell.

Entering the empty restaurant we knew it was too late to back out. We took a seat amongst the plastic flowers and poorly made ceramic lamps. The waiter/chef/owner greeted us as though he had not received customers in decades.

Judging by the bread this seemed all too true. Andrew knifed off a bit of mold and dipped in to the melted cheese. Following proper fondue etiquette Stuart scrapped the bottom of the pan scooping up a hard crispy sheet of Gruyere. We concluded Stuart finished an entire pot by himself.

A steep bill and a few cheesy pictures later we got back onboard the Kangoo express.

Back at the farm Andrew took a turn for the worse. Moldy bread dipped in cheese combined with the poorly cooked steak, which did Megan in sent him straight to the bathroom. He did not return until the next night.

The rest of the gang dined out in the town center. Walking around I noticed several nice establishments offering fondue, surrounded by St. Bernards I thought of Andrew and vowed never to trust oversized novelty items again.

DAY 2 BARILOCHE- SWISS COLONY & BLEST BREWERY

The next morning we lounged before packing in the Kangoo for our next adventure. Loop along Bustillo hugged the lake as we took in the sights. We drove up to the Hotel Llao Llao and stopped for a hike near by. A mild trek led us to a spectacular clearing by another lake.

Later that day we stopped by the Swiss Colony, which I imagine in its prime 30 years ago would be quite the spot for ski bunnies and fondue lovers. Stopping frequently to snap pictures we worked up a great thirst. We pulled into another brewery, Blest Brewery. More famous than the last with kitschy decorations the pub felt more like a Cracker Barrel than and authentic beer garden. 2 samplers (pretzel included) and a plate of Spatzel later made it home safe and sound

With anticipation we waited eagerly for Megan and Andrews arrival. They took a side trip to southern Patagonia to see the glaciers and Mt. Fitz Roy. More wine was opened and mom laid out a massive replica of the breweries picada.

When my sister and brother-in-law arrived we learned of Megan’s recent battle with food poisoning. The trooper that she is, she made it all the way up to Bariloche. Andrew took some priceless pictures of her crying in the freezing rain as they left their southern hostel.

Warm in the house the we rested and did a little star gazing while Stu cooked a giant lamb feast and went to sleep early waking early with renewed vigor.

ARRIVAL BARILOCHE

Snow capped mountains and white caped blue waters welcomed us into the center of town. We met our rental agent and cabbed to our remote cabin in the woods.

Better Homes and Gardens came to mind as we pulled in. The lodge looked as though it had been cut from a magazine and pasted to the picturesque mountain setting. 2 fireplaces and an indoor asado offered some relieve to the light bag of shorts and sandals flung over my shoulder. I had not realized how cold Bariloche would be!

 

 

Also unnoted in the travel plans was the house’s creepy grounds-keep. Fransisco leered eerily behind the house for most of the visit. Digging holes at 5 am and raking leaves on his finely manicured lawn.

 

We rented a Kangoo which seats 6 and drove to the center’s supermarket. Stocking up on wine, cheese and scotch we loaded the car.

On the way home we stopped at a local brewery. Where upon we drank some delicious house crafted brews and Nancy experienced her first Argentine Picada. Picada or Tabla translates to wooden boards filled with an assortment of meats, cheeses, olives and other snacks. The presentation is usually impressive and inspires duplication.

Back at the cabin the fire roared and the wine flowed. Quite and calm wrapped their arms around me as I enjoyed one of the most relaxing nights of my life. Bariloche glorious stretch from the chaos of Buenos Aires.

ON OUR WAY

THE JOURNEY

Before long our door man had placed our bags by the door (coating them in fur first) as we prepared for our journey. A 19-hour trip to Bariloche ain’t too bad if you go first class. With front row seats atop a double-decker bus we leaned back and enjoyed the views.  Imagine a swaying bus on narrow roads with tractor-trailers swooshing past at high speed. Add in a crappy action movie played on the bus screens and you’ve made one nervous Nancy!

I drank some wine from a Styrofoam cup and fell asleep watching Elf on my laptop.
The next morning we crossed over the grassy rolling hills into the lake district of RioNegro. With dry sandy red soil and briloy brush I thought how it did not look like Switzerland, but held a charm all its own.

SLOW MORNING/ QUICK TRIP TO LA BOCA

The next day we hung around the house enjoying a leisurely breakfast. Mom and dad seemed impressed by my fancy juice press. I picked up several media-lunas and fresh fruit to go with the oj.

From breakfast we hopped on bus 29 towards La Boca. A quick tour of the historic barrio let us take a few pictures before running from the over zealous waiters and tango dancers.

Colorful houses and a scramble for bus fair back made for a brief morning trip. With a bit of time to spare we stopped at El Hippapotamo Bar for a second café.

ERIC & NAN ARRIVE

Mom and Dad arrived Sunday November 15th. The reunion was long over due. Many hugs and kisses were exchanged to make up for the 1-year separation. After Stuart was introduced and presents were exchanged the 4 of us stepped on over to the San Telmo street fair.

Ready to go Nan and Eric walked with us back and forth along Defensa admiring the handicrafts and performers. By dusk we headed back to the apartment to open a bottle of wine and relax.

2 bottles and a few stories later we piled into a cab and headed to dinner. Mom and dad witnessed their first argument with a cab. After I noticed we were off the beaten path I barked in Spanish and set our course correctly. We exited sans tip.

For dinner Stuart and I chose one of our favorite little spots, Las Pizzara’s Bistro. Pizzara means “Blackboard”. The concept is based on fresh ingredients and a menu that changes daily. Everything from the fish, lamb, rabbit pate and wine are amazing and thoughtful. The evening kept on and conversation flowed naturally as though I had never been away from my family.

NOVEMBER SUMMARY; Tourism, Illness & Family

Where to begin? This month has been very busy filled with work and family.

November means one thing in Argentina, peak tourist season. Red scribbles and notes filled the first half of my work-calendar. Some days I hosted up to 3 wine tastings!

Since Stuart had ventured to Salta after Uruguay Carlos and I were left to our own devices. With out my lovely assistant by my side I found myself in quite overwhelmed with the tastings. We had developed a strong song and dance that it seemed unnatural to do them alone.

Around the 10th food poisoning struck. Serves me right I suppose. Take it from me; it is never a good idea to buy eggs from a Bolivian fruit vendor on a hot day. I spent the next few days recovering from a foul omelet. I missed our roommate’s birthday party and yelled at Carlos for not curing me.

Work became nearly impossible. At one tasting talking about food and wine for 2 hours put me over the edge. I had to excuse myself 3 times to throw up. I sent them off with a fine farewell rushing them out the door as I scurried to the porcelain shrine.

Embarrassed and worried about my inability to stomach water I abandoned the dirty glass-wear and rushed towards the hospital. Unbelievably the taxi driver decided to take me for a ride. This sort of behavior is common; I’ll let it slide on the way to dinner or to a show. But to the hospital, that is sick.

We wound our way through the jungle of run down neighborhoods and hurtling buses. As we passed though my old neighborhood of Balvanera I recalled the date. In 2 hours it would be midnight, marking my one-year anniversary in Buenos Aires. I laughed out-loud, someway to celebrate.

Reflecting on the journey down, my first day in the city and all the other memoirs that followed distracted me from my current state. I had gone to Parque Centenario with Cristina. We walked around the lakes and fountains stopping to watch people and their children.

Shortly after meeting with a doctor I was given antibiotics and sent home. The next few days included Gatorade, crackers and sleep. Stuart returned at the tail end of the bout. We took the day to rest, as he was badly sunburnt and exhausted form his journey.

Before long we were revived and preparing for my family’s visit…